The Allure of Sakai’s Vibrant Yuzen Dyeing

Chusen dyeing is a technique that involves pouring dye onto layered fabric from both sides. This art form originated in Osaka during the mid-Meiji period and is still widely used today for dyeing items such as tenugui(cotton towels) and yukata (summer kimono) across Japan.

One of the most appealing features of this technique is that it dyes both sides of the fabric simultaneously, ensuring the same pattern and color appear on each side. Additionally, because the dye is applied directly to the threads instead of just the surface of the fabric, the colors are less prone to fading, the fabric remains breathable, and the final product is soft to the touch. Notably, the Chusen dyeing technique practiced in Sakai is celebrated for its vibrant color combinations and its ability to create three-dimensional patterns using a technique called “bokashi,” which adds depth and nuance to the designs.

A Traditional Technique Passed Down Since the Meiji Era

The process involves four distinct steps, each carried out by specialized craftsmen who work in a division of labor. Over many years, these artisans have honed their skills and intuition, achieving a level of precision that surpasses any machine.

The first step is nori-oki (applying paste). A stencil with a patterned design is placed over the fabric, and a special paste is applied using a wooden spatula to cover the areas that will remain undyed. The paste prevents dye from seeping into these sections, leaving them white. Another layer of fabric is then placed on top of the pasted one, and this process is repeated 50 to 60 times. Even the slightest misalignment can distort the pattern, preventing the dye from penetrating properly. To ensure accuracy, the fabric is carefully aligned, folded back, and stacked layer by layer with precision.

Next is the dote-biki technique (embankment method) and pouring dyeing.
To control the spread of the dye, paste is applied around the area to be dyed, forming an embankment. The dye is then poured onto the fabric using a metal watering can. Simultaneously, a pump draws the dye from below, ensuring even saturation throughout the fabric. This process is carried out on both sides to achieve thorough, uniform dyeing. For designs that involve multiple colors or gradients, separate embankments are created with paste for each color, allowing for precise color separation and smooth blending.

Next comes the washing process.
The dyed fabric is rinsed with water to remove any excess dye and starch. Today, this is done using washing machines inside the factory, but in the past, it was done in the Ishizu River, which flows just outside. The sight of fabric drifting in the river’s current became a distinctive feature of the region.

Finally, dehydration and sun-drying.

After spinning in a centrifugal dehydrator, the washed fabric is hung on a drying rack to air dry naturally. Swaying gently in the breeze, the fabric takes about 30 minutes to dry in summer and around 90 minutes in winter.

Reviving Tradition Through Collaboration

The remaining dyeing factory has teamed up to create new products. One of the manufacturers continuing this dyeing tradition is Kyowa Somesarashi Factory, which has been producing chusen-dyed yukata, chusen-dyed cotton towels, and textile-printed cotton towels for three generations since it was founded in 1952. The factory’s president, Takao Komatsu, is a skilled traditional craftsman and master artisan, honored with prestigious awards like the Modern Master Craftsman Award and the Medal with Yellow Ribbon.

Visiting the factory along the Izutsu River in Kena-cho, Sakai, you’ll see colorful fabrics fluttering in the wind, instantly revealing that it’s a dyeing factory.

This area once boasted about 35 facilities, including bleaching and dyeing factories, and was a thriving center for chusen dyeing. Today, only around 10 factories remain, with just three focused specifically on chusen dyeing. Nevertheless, skilled artisans who have inherited these traditional techniques continue to practice meticulous craftsmanship.

Chusen dyeing has primarily centered on traditional towels and yukata (summer kimono). However, as the usage of these items has declined, so has the demand for chusen dyeing. There are also growing concerns about the dwindling number of artisans due to aging.

In discussions with industry peers about how to raise awareness of the charm of chusen dyeing, we concluded that we need to create products that resonate with modern lifestyles. We must develop items that appeal to younger generations for everyday use.

This realization led the chusen dyeing factories in Kena-cho to unite and form “Sakai Tsubondo.” Currently, two companies—Kyowa Somesarashi Factory and Kitayama Dyeing Factory—are collaborating to create and sell a diverse range of chusen products.

In the past, dyes were mixed in pots, which is why artisans are still referred to as “tsubondo” (pot men) today. We chose the name “Tsubondo” for our brand to reflect the dedication of artisans who uphold this tradition. Since the peak period from the Meiji era to the early Showa era, we have proudly continued to receive numerous orders from across Japan, thanks to Sakai’s exceptional chusen technology.

Reproducing intricate designs and vibrant colors is often considered challenging in chusen dyeing, but it’s an area where Kyowa Somesarashi Factory excels. Sakai Tsubondo features a variety of products, including fans selected for the 2024 Sakai Kitchen Selection and gauze handkerchiefs chosen in 2022, among others. We look forward to seeing what other beautiful designs inspired by chusen dyeing will be introduced in the future.

edit/text Tomoyo Tsuchiya
photographer Yutaka Sato

CONTACT