A Dyeing Technique Full of Charm: Chusen
2023.10.26
- sakai kitchen
- NEWS
- A Dyeing Technique Full of Charm: Chusen
A Dyeing Technique that Transformed Japanese Dyeing
Chusen is a dyeing technique mainly used for tenugui (washcloth). Single-color dyeing in indigo was the mainstream in this field until the introduction of multiple colors and gradients unlocked innovative color options that had never been realized before. It can dye the front and back of the fabric simultaneously, creating identical patterns and colors on both sides.
This technique is commonly applied to ‘wazarashi’, which is soft, skin-friendly fabric that underwent the process of removing impurities by bleaching. Wazarashi was designated as a national traditional craft under the name ‘Naniwa Honzome’ by the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry in November 2019.
Application of Paste
The steps involved in chusen (Naniwa Honzome) production are rather unique.
Firstly, the wazarashi fabric (bleached fabric) is laid on the paste table, and a stencil is placed on top. Using a tool known as the ‘wooden spatula’, a special ‘resist paste’ that can repel the dye is evenly applied. The fabric is folded back and the process is repeated for each piece. A single piece of sarashi (bleached fabric) is over 20m long and can make 60 to 70 pieces of tenugui. They are dyed all at once without cutting by layering.
Forming the Barrier・Pouring the Dye
After placing the fabric with paste on the dyeing table, a sort of barrier (‘dote’) is formed by squeezing out the resist paste. This process prevents the dye from spilling over from the area enclosed by the barrier. Dye is poured into this space using a watering can-like tool (‘dohin’) and the fabric is dyed evenly by suctioning the dye from beneath the table with a pump. This process is repeated for the back side as well. The dye will not seep into the areas where the paste is applied while it will soak into the areas without it.
Washing・Dewatering・Drying
The dyed fabric is taken to the washing area, where all the paste and excess dye are washed away. Then, the washed fabric is dewatered and dried either in the sun or using industrial dryers indoors.
Chusen products produced in this way present distinct characteristics that sets them apart from other dyed products. Dyeing the thread itself results in vivid colors and fade-resistance, and the breathability is maintained because the dye is not just covering the surface of the fabric. Also, the technique makes it possible to apply multiple colors together to create delicate gradations. This variety of design options is the primary reason this culture continues to be cherished by many.